Everything you need to know about diving with whale sharks in Indonesia.

Hey Fam! It’s been a while, hasn’t it? I know, it’s a bit odd that I haven’t shared much about my Bali adventures on the blog, but fear not, because today I’m diving deep into my recent journey through the enchanting island of Sumbawa where I went on a free dive journey with humble giants: The whale sharks. And guess what? I’m even planning to compile all my Bali wisdom into an ebook soon, so stay tuned for that!

For those who don’t know, Bali holds a special place in my heart. I spent almost three years living there, immersing myself in its culture, traditions, and natural beauty. And let me tell you, deciding to ride out the waves of COVID in Bali was hands down one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. From getting to know the locals to exploring every nook and cranny of the island, Bali became my sanctuary during uncertain times.

One of the highlights of my Bali journey has been establishing a sustainable clothing production on the island. Every piece of clothing produced is crafted with love and care by local artisans using biodegradable soft materials and everything is created in an ethical and supportive environment where these beautiful women are tailoring these outstanding limited pieces. It’s not just about fashion; it’s about preserving the environment and supporting local communities.

Despite now living in Dubai, I make it a point to return to Bali regularly, both for business and for my own well-being. There’s something about the island that rejuvenates my soul and keeps me grounded. I’ve been postponing my trip back but it was way long due to go back home to my sweet incense-scented mama island. Initially planning for a short ten-day trip, I ended up extending my stay to fulfil some items on my bucket list, however, not everything went according to plan. A misadventure with an unreliable photographer cost me valuable time, but hey, such is life. You live, you learn, and you adapt.

Among the things I had hoped to experience during my trip were adventures to Komodo Island, a lake full of jelly fish in Raja Ampat, a different amazing lake in Sulawesi, or swimming with whale sharks in Sumbawa. While not everything panned out, I did manage to check off one item from my list – swimming with whale sharks in Sumbawa.

The Sumbawa experience was nothing short of transformative. From the crystal-clear waters to the majestic creatures gliding beneath me, it was a moment of pure bliss and connection with nature. And although I didn’t share much about it on social media, now is the proper time and representation of such a journey that will forever be etched in my heart.

With this said let’s delve deeper into my Sumbawa adventure, sharing tips, insights, and everything you need to know for your own transformative adventure.

Getting there, and the adventure itself

Easiest way is to book your flight with Wings/Lion Air. You get on the plane in Bali, land for 30 mins in Lombok, you stay on the plane, change your seat and take off to Sumbawa. So easy. No need ferry, long drives, etc. Jump on a plane.

Bali Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS) – Lombok International Airpor (LOP) – Sumbawa (SQW)

My return ticket cost was: 2991000 IDR that is like 191 USD.

Where I stayed: Grand Samota in Sumbawa Besar village, super close to the airport 91 USD. Really wasn’t worth it, but there are not many European standard stays within close reach, not for my comfy ass anyway. This hotel was dirty, full of spider nets, never ever used vacuum cleaner nor wet mopping I guess. I recommend to stay on the southern part of the island because its prettier, you can surf there, there is white sand and a beautiful resort. Not to mention that to reach to the port you where you will embark on your diving journey you will need to drive 2 hours from Sumbawa Besar also. It really depends on how much you are charged by your local tour operator for the car pick up service – which in my case was a free diver I have found on Instagram. Interestingly on Sumbawa island grab cost more than in Bali so keep in mind that travelling with a bike is more budget friendly than paying a driver…

Pick up: 00:30 from your hotel, followed by a 2-hour drive to port.

3:00 AM: Embark on your small, narrow, wet, old, diesel-driven extremely loud and smelly wooden boat that will take you on a 2-hour journey in the ocean, under the pitch black dark sky.

05:00 AM: Arrive to the first possible encounter point a fishing boat. We didn’t have luck with the first one, so carried on to the second where the sharks were already there.

Until 6 AM the sun still didn’t come up, so I waited till I got my first heart attack seeing how huge these creatures were and realizing that they were not only wider than my little boat but way longer as well.

The traditional indonesian spider-looking fishing boat was hosting approx. 6 men, who were working on the morning shift to catch their daily fish dose, and feeding the whales for us to keep them there in one place. At that moment I was unaware what was happening, and under those dark sky I could only sense the presence of something extraordinary by observing the behaviour of the birds circulating above us.

The whales were getting in a vertical position opening their huge wide mouth to receive the bonus (the krill) that the fisherman was feeding them. They are gentle but huge so it was scary to imagine going so close to them but don’t worry if you don’t go they will. At some point having my head outside of the water just getting a deep breath to dive down again only to realize that 2 sharks were right under my feet and one facing, and swimming towards me, gently changing direction instead of crossing me thanks god. I have that captured on a video and it is really funny how I got scared and the shark just peacefully changed its direction! They are so humble it is incredible to witness. To be sure I only went in the water after careful and long examination of their behaviour towards other divers and their moves. Spent there a good 2 hours until the sun completely risen up and my shoulder got dislocated to a point where I wasn’t able to move my arm anymore.

One thing I must say, it is better to go on a program like this with a friend. It is better to experience than trying to catch a good photo or video underwater. It is better to focus on your breath and on the presence than chasing a whale shark and swimming after one just to get a good angle for your footage.

Your tour operator will prepare at the end of the dive a lovely fruit platter and serve you coffee and tea. The local fishermen will stop feeding them and the sharks will eventually fade away back to the dark depth of the ocean. You will be taken back to the port and driven back to the hotel. All in all, it is a good half day program and you will be exhausted after. You don’t have to worry about the snorkel gear and fins, this will be given to you, only bring with you towels, a warm pullover, spf 50, tissues and maybe a painkiller just in case. In the afternoon depending where you are staying you can enjoy a mesmerising sunset, meet sweet locals and the next morning board your flight back to Bali. Optionally there is a bus and ferry that can take you to Lombok also by why travel with such hustle when you can take and easy flight.

I hope I can motivate you to get out of your comfort zone and travel as long and as much as you can!

If you are still here reading this part of my post is for the solo female travellers about the emotional and mental burden we carry as women while being abroad alone.
Here is everything I honestly went through from vulnerability to feeling guilt and shame to clarification and justification.

Embarking on a journey as a solo female traveller is not for the faint of heart. It requires courage, resilience, and a willingness to confront the unknown. As I reflect on my recent trip to Sumbawa, I am reminded of the intense mental, emotional, and physical challenges I encountered along the way.

Leaving Bali behind, I was unprepared for the overwhelming fear that would grip me during my journey. The energies of the planet are shifting, and as someone spiritually awakened and sensitive, I found myself facing one of the greatest challenges of my life – the fear of the unknown. While as it is not typical of me that night of the dive I encountered an energy upsetting my whole being. I felt like all my blood cells were boiling and I was ready to go to hell. I do not wish to anyone what I have gone through emotionally that night.

I had made the decision not to tell my mother the true purpose of my trip, fearing that the weight of my journey would burden her fragile heart. In doing so, I had inadvertently created a chasm between us, one filled with unspoken fears and unshed tears. Hours before the diver would pick me up with the driver the feelings that were flushing and pumping my body reached a point where I almost fainted. I thought of my Mom, who is the only grounding element in my life for years. I imagined what would she go through should anything happen to me. She doesn’t speak English, she doesn’t know which island I am, she doesn’t know with whom or where I went. Let alone she knows I am surrounded with unknown man, in a tiny island, during night completely dependent and alone with them. I never want to imagine those thought again, but man… They were transformative. It wasn’t just a fear of the unfamiliar landscapes or foreign cultures, foreign man, or diving with whale sharks… It was a deeper, more visceral fear – a fear for the safety of my mother, my anchor in this unpredictable world. If my future daughter would do this I would go crazy. Period. (And here and now I wish for the universe to bless me first with a boy and a girl after only!)

Before getting in the car my theatrical play accelerated and ended right on time. I was on hotline with my spiritual friends from Hungary, who navigated me through with the help of energy and deep understanding and meaning of my feelings. There were friends who discredited my fear and even blamed me for that, and there were those who fully supported me for what I am forever grateful. I was before a victim of masculine violence and since I still don’t know why my emotions erupted that night I am so pleased to tell no harm happened, all the man were kind and humble, and the whole experience at the end was worth it. When I was able to stand up and get on with my journey, I experienced extreme pain in my belly and the cleansing that happened in the restroom is history. I had only couple small bites during the day, as soon as the crap left my body (literally, and hypothetically) a grounding wisdom, a powerful feminine energy, peaceful strength arrived in my body. I was exchanged to the complete opposite. I have put on my backpack, gathered two towels in case I would be freezing on the boat and left my room.

Hear me out: The journey began with a late-night drive through the narrow village roads of Sumbawa. As I sat in the car with two strangers, the darkness enveloped us, and every passing moment filled me back with a sense of vulnerability. The driver’s reckless speed only heightened my anxiety. Him and the free diver were mere strangers to me, that offered no solace, their presence only served to amplify my sense of isolation. Arriving at the ocean port, I was met by three fishermen who would accompany me on a tiny wooden boat into the vast ocean. The thought of spending hours surrounded by unfamiliar faces in the darkness was daunting, yet I pressed on, fuelled by a determination to experience the beauty that awaited me.

The boat had a diesel engine, that was extremely loud. The smell and the smoke that erupted from it was beyond scary. As we ventured further from shore, the storm clouds gathered overhead, casting an eerie glow across the water. The sight sent a shiver down my spine, as I realized the gravity of the situation I had willingly placed myself in. In that moment, I felt utterly alone, adrift in a sea of uncertainty with thunderstorms around me. No joke at some point I cracked up laughing cos I made that all happen. I sensed a great similarity to my past experiences and came to the conclusion, that:

“I NEVER LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES“

Yet, amidst the chaos and the fear, there was also a sense of clarity – a realization that true courage lies not in the absence of fear, but in the willingness to face it, despite the odds. Well certainly I do not have to prove myself how brave I am, but who knows maybe somewhere in heaven lol they put this on my list and claim that I have crossed an exam…

The encounter with the whale sharks, majestic creatures of the deep, was both exhilarating and terrifying. As I watched them glide effortlessly beneath the surface, I felt a surge of adrenaline course through me. Yet, it was also a stark reminder of the risks I had taken to be there. Looking back at the footage I might do it again, but not alone, and well prepared. By taking free diving lessons and learning to equalize better, and more often. Or you know what? Maybe not. I felt more at peace at the presence of majestic manta rays. Being a soul that remembers Atlantis, who travelled back in time there, and having a specific fear of water, that I am continuing to disrupt more and more I think it is time to create more harmonic memories and adventures. That’s it I shall remember for this decision of mine: No more Indonesian whale shark expeditions.

In the aftermath of my journey, I found myself grappling with conflicting emotions. While I had emerged unscathed, the experience had left an indelible mark on my psyche. I realized that while solo travel may be empowering, it is not without its risks.

I urge my fellow female travellers to exercise caution and to prioritize their safety above all else. Though the allure of adventure may be inviting, it is essential to consider the potential consequences of our actions.

Ultimately, my journey to Sumbawa was a profound lesson in self-reliance and resilience. It taught me to trust in my own strength and to embrace the challenges that come my way. As I continue to navigate the unpredictable waters of life, I do so with a newfound sense of empowerment and gratitude for every moment that I am given.

In the end, it is not the destination that defines us, but the journey itself. And though the path may be fraught with obstacles, it is through facing our fears that we discover our truest selves. So, to all the fearless women out there, I say this – embrace the unknown, but do so with caution and mindfulness. For in the depths of uncertainty, we often find our greatest strength.